No state is more closely associated with our country’s early westward migration than Nebraska, home to some of the landmarks most frequently noted in emigrant diaries. Jail Rock, Courthouse Rock, Chimney Rock, and Scotts Bluff served as important mileposts and indicated the pioneers had completed about a third of their trip.

The Oregon, California, Mormon trails, and the Pony Express each followed the Platte River Valley that offered mostly flat terrain — plus plentiful water and grass. However, the journey through Nebraska was not without difficulties, especially in the western portion of what would become our 37th state.

The Oregon Trail enters Nebraska’s southern border with Kansas just west of the small town of Odell. The emigrants then continued northwest to the Platte, a wide, shallow, meandering river that served as their highway into present-day Wyoming.

We departed the trail entering the state because we wanted to spend time at Homestead National Monument of America near the small town of Beatrice. This National Park Service site interprets the country’s homesteading era and is unrelated to the Oregon Trail. However, it is an interesting stop and not far off our path.

Our first major trail destination was Rock Creek Station, a state historical park. Here we walked beside deep depressions made by pioneer wagons following the Oregon and California trails north to the Platte River. The site also includes reconstructed buildings based on two ranches dating from the late 1850s. We spent most of a morning walking beside the trails, inspecting the buildings, and talking with park employees before heading north to Fort Kearny State Historical Park. As an aside, Wild Bill Hickok shot and killed a man at Rock Creek Station.

Fort Kearny was established in 1848 as a military post to protect emigrants heading west. After a stop at the visitor center to check the exhibits, we strolled outside and explored the reconstructed stockade, blacksmith shop, and powder magazine. The emigrant trail ran a little north of the park in an area that is now cultivated. It was a fun afternoon where we encountered Boy Scouts working on projects to restore park exhibits.

After a late afternoon visit to the Great Platte River Road Archway Monument and a night in Kearney (the town is spelled differently from the park) we headed west on the old Lincoln Highway toward several of the trail’s most impressive landmarks. On the way, we stopped at an I-80 rest stop to walk along trail ruts on O’Fallon’s Bluff where the pioneers were required to veer over a rise near the river.

The North and South Platte tributaries converge just east of the town of North Platte. Most wagon trains followed the South Platte to a crossing point and headed north to the south bank of the North Platte. During this relatively short stretch they encountered two major impediments: California Hill and Windlass Hill.

Ash Hollow served as a resting place for emigrants who had just struggled with California Hill and Windlass Hill. A state park visitor center is nearby where this photo was taken. 

California Hill represented the first major grade for the pioneers who had been traveling over a flat, dusty landscape. Following a difficult climb they headed north and descended exceedingly steep Windlass Hill to Ash Hollow, an attractive resting spot. Visiting the California Hill requires driving a mile on a very rough dirt road and viewing Windlass Hill means climbing a steep paved path, but these locations are awesome and worth the time and effort.

After reaching the North Platte River, the pioneers again headed west passing iconic trail landmarks Courthouse Rock, Jail Rock, and Chimney Rock. We drove over for a closer look at the first two and stopped at an interpretive center at Chimney Rock. The relatively small center offers a film, exhibits, and a good view of the trail’s most famous landmark. A small cemetery near the visitor center offers an excellent viewpoint.

Following a night in Scottsbluff we spent most of a day exploring Scotts Bluff National Monument. Here we walked beside trail ruts and examined visitor center exhibits that included William Henry Jackson’s Oregon Trail paintings. A drive to the top of the bluff resulted in a panoramic view of Mitchell Pass and the surrounding landscape.

Prior to 1851 when the U.S. Army blasted an opening through the bluff, wagon trains were required to loop south across Robidoux Pass, named for an enterprising fellow who established a trading post that catered to the emigrants. The post has been reconstructed and is a worthwhile stop for travelers following the trail.

Now it was time to cross into present-day Wyoming.

David and Kay Scott are authors of “Complete Guide to the National Park Lodges” (Globe Pequot). Visit them at mypages.valdosta.edu/dlscott/Scott.html